When we need really good tacos, we drive nearly halfway across Massachusetts to Mission Cantina in Amherst. It’s in a strange pocket of town, surrounded by condos and cornfields, and you have to be careful not to drink too many Mexican beers because there’s nowhere to walk them off before you get back in the car. But the tacos are the best I’ve had in New England—definitely worth the drive.
It was there that I first tried poblano rajas tacos. It’s the vegetarian option on their taco list, and I’ve come to love it more than any other. Strips (rajas) of pepper are the star here, and they’re meaty enough to hold up to the tortilla. They’re deep and smoky and need very little accompaniment. Except Mexican beer, of course. I like to roast peppers in my oven, but if you’re eager to grill or it’s already going, you can roast them on a hot grill instead.
Ingredients
- 1 pound poblano peppers (about 6)
- Neutral oil, such as grapeseed or sunflower
- 1 teaspoon whole cumin seeds
- 1 medium onion, halved vertically and sliced thin into ribbons
- 1 tablespoon fresh oregano or 1 teaspoon dried
- Kosher salt
- 10 small corn tortillas
- For serving: Sour cream or crème fraîche, soft cheese (such as Cotija, chèvre, or mild feta), Simplest Slaw (this page), lime wedges
- Set your broiler rack about 6 inches from the broiler element. Preheat it to medium, or if your broiler has a temperature setting, 450°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil.
- Lightly rub each pepper with oil, laying them on the prepared baking sheet as you go. Broil until the peppers are blackened on all sides, turning them a few times over the course of cooking, anywhere from 7 to 15 minutes per side. Stay attentive to their progress; the peppers are done when they’re mostly blistered and collapsed. Use tongs to transfer them to a big heatproof bowl. Cover tightly with plastic wrap or a plate that fits the bowl exactly. Let sit for about 20 minutes.
- After they “sweat,” the peppers should slide right out of their skins. Put on rubber gloves to protect your hands from the heat of the peppers. Separate the stems, skin, and seeds from the flesh of the peppers, laying the peppers on a cutting board as you go. Slice the peppers into long strips.
- Heat about 1 tablespoon oil in a medium skillet over medium-high heat. When it shimmers, add the cumin seeds. Cook for a few seconds, then add the onion and cook, stirring constantly, until the onion wilts and chars, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the peppers and oregano, and cook, stirring constantly, until they’re tender and browned in spots, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and salt the peppers to taste.
- Heat a separate skillet over medium heat. Warm the tortillas in the skillet one or two at a time, stacking them on a plate as you go. Serve the poblanos on the tortillas, topped with the sour cream, cheese, and slaw, with the lime wedges on the side.
