Mac ’n’ cheese is something of a controversial entry in this book. I, and perhaps a few of you too, grew up with macaroni cheese as a meal in itself, not as a side dish. But there are few barbecue, steak and burger restaurants that don’t have the US version listed on their menu, and I can see the value of having it in your repertoire for those kinds of eats. I also think it goes particularly well with cooked ham, smoked haddock and baked tomatoes. For me, it should be loose and light, and the sauce doesn’t need to be massively cheesy when it’s a side, or you’ll dominate the other things on your plate. This recipe strikes a good balance on both those fronts.
Note that the portion size here relates to its role as team player, rather than main event. If you want a particularly crunchy topping, add a handful or two of umami crumbs before baking, though that’s not always needed.
Ingredients
- 250 g dried macaroni or elbow macaroni
- 700 ml milk
- 40 g butter
- ½ large onion, finely diced
- 1 small garlic clove, crushed
- 40 g plain flour
- 60 g Gruyère, grated
- 40 g mature Cheddar, grated
- 25 g Parmesan, grated
- 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
- 60 g umami crumbs
- Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
- Put a large pan of well-salted water over a high heat. Once it’s at a rolling boil, add the pasta and cook for 2 minutes less than the time stated on the packet. Drain and rinse under cold running water until cooled. Set aside.
- Put the milk in a saucepan and heat it gently. Melt the butter in a large pan over a medium heat. Add the onion and a pinch of salt and let this cook and soften for 3 minutes before adding the garlic. Turn the heat down a little and cook for 2 minutes more. Stir the flour into the butter and onions to make a paste (a roux), then cook this for 4–5 minutes over a very low heat, stirring constantly, until it is loose, slick and a pale beige colour. Add a ladle of warm milk and stir until the liquid is incorporated. Then add another, again stirring until fully incorporated. Keep adding and stirring until the milk is fully incorporated. Cook, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking, over a low-medium heat for 8–10 minutes, until the sauce thickens and no longer tastes of raw flour. Add the cheese and mustard and stir until melted into the sauce.
- Preheat the oven to 200°C/Fan 180°C/Gas 6. If the saucepan is big enough, tip the cooked and cooled macaroni into the sauce and stir well, then transfer to a large ovenproof dish around 4–6 cm deep (alternatively, mix the pasta and sauce directly in the ovenproof dish). Sprinkle the umami crumbs, if using, on top, then bake on the top shelf for 20–30 minutes, or until bubbling and golden.
