Aka dashi soups made with smoky, pure bean Hatchō miso are often served in elegant establishments at the conclusion of a kaiseki-style banquet. This aka dashi, however, boasts a more plebeian profile, attributable to the fact that the burdock root is not soaked first. Because aku-nuki, or “bitterness removal,” is not performed, some “froth” might need to be removed as you simmer the soup, but the intensely woodsy overtones that the untreated burdock contributes will provide character. The slivers of dried ita-bu (wheat gluten) absorb the flavors of the burdock and miso nicely and provide volume as well.
Ingredients
- ½ teaspoon aromatic sesame oil
- 1 small burdock root, about 4 ounces, scraped and cut sasagaki style
- Pinch of sugar
- 1 tablespoon sake
- 3 cups stock, preferably Basic Kelp Stock
- 3 tablespoons Hatcho miso
- 1 sheet ita-bu, about 5½ by 8 inches, softened, cut with scissors in half lengthwise, and then crosswise into very thin strips
- ¼ teaspoon kona-zanshō, optional
How to Make It
- Heat the sesame oil in a sturdy 2-quart pot over high heat. Add the burdock root and sauté for about 1 minute, or until aromatic and wilted. Sprinkle with the sugar and sauté for about 30 seconds, or until a few edges appear caramelized. Add the saké and deglaze the pot, stirring to dislodge any browned bits. Add the stock, bring to a simmer, and then adjust the heat to maintain a gentle simmer. Cook for 2 minutes. If large clouds of froth appear, skim with a fine-mesh skimmer.
- Place the miso in a miso koshi and stir to dissolve directly in the pot. Or, place the miso in a small bowl and ladle in some of the hot stock from the pot. Stir to dissolve, then strain this mixture through a fine-mesh strainer into the pot if there are bits or lumps. Do not allow the soup to boil once the miso has been added. This traditional wisdom should be heeded for two reasons: boiling the soup diminishes the nutritional value of miso and compromises its aroma. Toss in the strips of ita-bu and stir. The strips will swell and open into thin ribbons.
- If possible, use 4 deep, lidded Japanese-style soup bowls, which will ensure the soup is served piping hot and will trap the aromas. Ladle the soup into the bowls. Garnish each serving with a pinch of kona-zanshō, if you like a bit of spice. Lid the bowls and serve immediately.
